Monday, September 13, 2010

BEACH DYNAMIC

A sand beach exist because there is a balance between the supply and removal of the material that form it. Dynamic equilibrium a process that happened a long the time. Supply is equal to the removal of material. The beach is continually changing It appear unchanged and remain in balance

NATURAL PROCESSES
Onshore Current :
  • waves moving towards the beach
  • Produce current in surf zone
  • Move water onshore and along the beach

Onshore Transport :
A current transport suspended sediment towards the shore

Longshore Current :
  • wave will not approach the beach paralely
  • Strike the beach with slight angle
  • This current moves down the beach

LONGSHORE TRANSPORT
  • Turbulence occurs as the waves break in the surf zone
  • Tumbles the beach material into suspension
  • The existence of longshore current
  • Displace the sediment down the shore
  • Producing longshore transport

RIP CURRENT
  • Onshore transport accumulate water and sediments/sand
  • This water flow back to the sea
  • It repeat all the time
  • Region where water return seawards is narrow
  • Make the flow of water Fast moving
  • This is RIP CURRENT

ESTUARIES
  • River mouth, fjords, fault bays, and other semi-enclosed body of salt water are all parts of the coastal zone.
  • If one of these has a free connection with the ocean
  • If it diluted with fresh water
  • If average salinity lower than the adjacent of the sea
  • This an estuary

TYPE OF ESTUAIES BASED ON THE CIRCULATION AND SALINITY DISTRIBUTION
SALT WEDGE ESTUARY
  • Occur with in the mouth of a river flowing directly into salt water
  • Fresh water flows rapidly out to sea at surface
  • The denser sea water flow upstream along the river bottom
  • Seawater held back by the flow of the river
  • Form a sharp density boundary of salinity

WELL MIXED ESTUARY
  • Have strong tidal mixing and low river flow
  • Creating slow seaward flow of water at all depth
  • Due to strong tidal turbulence the salinity will uniform over depths and decrease from the ocean to the river
  • There is a little or no transport of seawater inward at depth; instead salt is transferred inwards by turbulence diffusion.

PARTIALLY MIXED ESTUARIES
  • Have strong net seaward surface flow of fresh water and strong inflow of sea water at depth
  • Sea water is mixed upward and combined with the river water by tidal current turbulence
  • Entrainment to produce a seaward surface flow that is larger than that of the river water alone

FJORD-TYPE ESTUARY
  • Deep, small surface area estuary
  • Moderately high river input
  • Little tidal mixing
  • The river water tend to remain at the surface
  • Move seaward with little mixing of the underlying salt water